Friday, 8th Mar 2013
In Focus: The Camouflage Waxed Bomber
Subverting a classic, the made in England tennis bomber is recontextualised this season, with a printed British DPM camouflage pattern and a Stewart tartan lining. Our sporting heritage combines with strong subcultural references, resulting in a unique interpretation of the iconic silhouette and an unexpected pairing of two decidedly British patterns.
Whilst tartans were historically worn to serve as a symbol of distinction, allowing the wearer to be recognised, British DPM (Disruptive Pattern Material) was designed to disguise, ensuring the wearer blended into the surroundings. Officially used by British forces as well as many other armies worldwide, particularly in former British colonies; the pattern made the ironic transition from military uniform to subculture uniform in a matter of decades.
Camouflage rose to prominence during the 1960s as part of the counterculture appropriation of military surplus clothing. In stark contrast to its intended purpose, anti-war protestors took to adding peace signs and symbolic writings to their jackets. The rebellious links to the pattern continued to flourish during the late 1970s and 80s, particularly within anti-establishment punk and skinhead movements.
Although commonly associated with the 80s uniform of bleached jeans, braces and button up shirts, British DPM has continued to play a part in music-driven subcultures right up until today; be it the 90s Junglist kids, techno heads or 60s revivalists. A truly cultural phenomenon, in a reverse of its intended purpose, camouflage print has been used by generations not only to establish uniformity amongst each other, but to communicate individual ideas, values and beliefs.
Crafted in waxed British Millerain quality cloth, the camouflage bomber jacket has been produced in highly limited quantities and is available exclusively online and in Laurel Wreath Collection shops.