Posts tagged as 'Menswear'
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Friday, 8th Mar 2013
Subverting a classic, the made in England tennis bomber is recontextualised this season, with a printed British DPM camouflage pattern and a Stewart tartan lining. Our sporting heritage combines with strong subcultural references, resulting in a unique interpretation of the iconic silhouette and an unexpected pairing of two decidedly British patterns.
Whilst tartans were historically worn to serve as a symbol of distinction, allowing the wearer to be recognised, British DPM (Disruptive Pattern Material) was designed to disguise, ensuring the wearer blended into the surroundings. Officially used by British forces as well as many other armies worldwide, particularly in former British colonies; the pattern made the ironic transition from military uniform to subculture uniform in a matter of decades.
Camouflage rose to prominence during the 1960s as part of the counterculture appropriation of military surplus clothing. In stark contrast to its intended purpose, anti-war protestors took to adding peace signs and symbolic writings to their jackets. The rebellious links to the pattern continued to flourish during the late 1970s and 80s, particularly within anti-establishment punk and skinhead movements.
Although commonly associated with the 80s uniform of bleached jeans, braces and button up shirts, British DPM has continued to play a part in music-driven subcultures right up until today; be it the 90s Junglist kids, techno heads or 60s revivalists. A truly cultural phenomenon, in a reverse of its intended purpose, camouflage print has been used by generations not only to establish uniformity amongst each other, but to communicate individual ideas, values and beliefs.
Crafted in waxed British Millerain quality cloth, the camouflage bomber jacket has been produced in highly limited quantities and is available exclusively online and in Laurel Wreath Collection shops.
Monday, 25th Feb 2013
This season, an eye-catching miniature paisley pattern enlivens classic styles across the men’s Authentic collection. Originally used in Iranian and Indian design, the twisted tear drop pattern made its way to British shores by way of travelers and soldiers during the early 19th century. Men would return from foreign lands with patterned gifts, woven in rich silks and cashmere.
Paisley Print Oxford Shirt - click here to view
Noting the popularity of the exotic designs, British textile merchants were eager to reproduce the patterns closer to home. The town of Paisley in Scotland, which was famed for its textile manufacturing (and incidentally had been home to the Stewart family, after which Stewart tartan is named), became a key producer of the design which fittingly adopted the town’s name. In the early days paisley fabrics were intricately produced on weaving looms, however this timely system was soon dropped in favour of printing. The new speedy and cost effective production methods led many designers to use the distinctive tear drop design in their work and in turn cemented its place in British design.
Paisley Print Shirt - click here to view.
The pattern was notably favoured by the mods during the 1960s and famously made its way onto the iconic Fender Telecaster guitar during the 1970s.
Modernised and simplified for spring 2013, the geometric pattern looks striking printed across the three button shirt and the woven Oxford style. The small scale two-colour teardrops create an almost polka dot effect when viewed from a distance, adding flashes of maroon and yellow to blue based fabrics. Elsewhere in the collection it brings a distinctive edge to both footwear and accessories.
Thursday, 21st Feb 2013
This season, our men’s Laurel Wreath Collection is complemented by a new selection of footwear. A key style is the Ray shoe - infusing classic British styling with contemporary design, timeless leather Oxford brogue uppers are offset by thick gum coloured soles, complete with over-sized hand stitch detailing.
Ray Embossed Leather Shoe - click here to view
A delicate embossed pattern brings depth and texture to the traditional style, whilst thin waxed cranberry laces add a hint of colour. Finishing touches include a soft leather lining, our signature Stewart tartan insole and a Laurel Wreath embossed leather tab to the heel. Team with slim trousers, a graphic-detail knit and this season's made in England raincoat.